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Leaning or damaged fence

17/1/2013

2 Comments

 
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If you have a fence that is damaged or leaning there may be a simple solution. There are three main reasons that a fence needs attention.
  1. Wind damage or weight of foliage
  2. Pushed out by tree roots
  3. Old or rotten fence

The solution will depend on the cause so see whichever section applies to you below. This advice relates to panel style fences. If you have a feather edge fence I would suggest contacting a landscape gardener.

1. Wind damage or weight of foliage.

If the fence has moved due to high winds or weight of foliage then it is likely the posts will need some attention. Ideally you will not need to remove or replace the post and you will be able to reset it in place.

If the post is set in concrete and the entire ball of concrete is moving in the ground when you push the fence then you may be able to dig down around the existing concrete and fill with fresh concrete. Be sure to compact the concrete well and use a level to check the post is set in the correct position.

If the post is sunk using a metal spike then it is probably wise to remove the post entirely and start again. Either unscrew any fixings or lever off any nails attaching the post to the panels. Pull the panels back a little and you should be able to wobble the post free eventually. If it will not come out easily you may need to excavate around the spike a little. Follow the instructions further below on how to set a new post.

2. Pushed out by tree roots.

If a fencepost has been set too close to a tree or large shrub then over time the roots can push the fence out of line. If this is the case you will probably need to set new posts away from the tree roots. Existing panels may need to be cut to size and a new panel may need to be purchased. If you are handy with a saw then set the new posts as explained further below and cut the panels to size. You may need to purchase some timber batons to nail to the cut edge.

3. Old or rotten fence.

If the posts look good and feel solid in the ground then you will just need to break out the rotted panels and screw in a new one. If the posts are also looking a bit rotten it might be time to contact Bristol Landscaping for a new fence.

 
How to set a new fencepost and attach panels
.

Once the existing post is removed you will need to dig a hole at least 45cm (18") deep. You will need a spade or digging spoons and, depending on the ground, you may also need a metal bar. Cut the post to the required length and insert into the hole. You will want to use a fairly dry and stiff concrete mix using a 5 to 1 ballast and cement mix.

Two people will make the job a lot easier from here on in. Pour in the concrete mix in stages and tamp down with a piece of wood whilst keeping a level on the post to achieve the correct position. Once the hole has been filled with concrete (do not fill to ground level, leave at least a couple of inches)) the post should remain in place as the concrete sets.

The panels are easily attached using either hammer and nails or screws and a drill with scredriver attachment. Use a level on top of the fence to ensure they are set level.


If you need help with your fence repairs please contact us.




2 Comments

How to repair wobbly or uneven patio slabs

16/1/2013

4 Comments

 
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An uneven patio or wobbly slabs can be a simple problem that does not necessarily mean it's time to contact Bristol Landscaping and have your patio relaid. If you are prepared to put in a litle time and effort then the problem can often be fixed without calling in a landscape gardener.

If it's just one or two slabs that are wobbly then you will not need to spend more than two or three hours if you have access to a few basic tools. These are a lump hammer and bolster (to break out the old mortar), a bucket or wheelbarrow (to make the morat mix in), spade or shovel (to mix the mortar), a trowel (to lay the new mortar), a rubber mallet (to level and position the slabs) and level or flat piece of wood (to check the finished level).

There are three main causes of wobbly slabs; they have been layed on an uneven bed, they were disturbed before the mortar went off, or the sub base was not sufficient. The first two are easily repaired, and an insufficient sub base will require just a little more effort.

First of all you will need to lift the wobbly slabs. Generally if you get a trowel or spade underneath you can easily lift it out of position. You will then be left with the underlying mortar which will need to be broken out. Use the lump hammer and bolster to remove all underlying and surrounding mortar. Be very careful not to disturb surrounding slabs as they would also need to be relaid.

Now the sub base is visible, is there a good amount of compacted aggregate stone? If so then stamp it down again and you are ready to lay the slab. If the ground is not solid you may want to dig down a little and insert some type 1/scalpings and compact as best you can.

You will now need a mortar mix. You can buy ready mixes from builders merchants where you just add water or you can purchase sand and cement and create a roughly 5 to 1 mix. Do not make the mix too wet by adding too much water.

Insert the mortar mix onto the compacted stone up to the underneath of the slab using the trowel. Test the slab on the mix to see how the height looks. Use the level of piece of wood to check level with surrounding slabs. Use the rubber mallet to attempt to achieve a level with surrounding slabs. It is likely that you will need to lift the slab again and either remove or insert mortar. It is a good idea to work the mortar with the trowel and create an uneven surface to help positioing. Make sure the slabs are sitting on a full bed of mortar.

Depending on the type of slabs there may now be a gap between the newly laid slad and the surrounding slabs. These will need to be filled to prevent the slabs from once again becoming wobbly. You need to make a dry mortar mix (so that you can just make a ball but wil also crumble in the hand). Using the trowel carefullly fill the gaps and either using a pointing tool or a glaved finger compress the mix into the gaps until filled and smooth off as best you can.

That's pretty much it. Keep off them for a couple of days if possible and all should be well.

If you need help with this, or any other landscaping project, please contact us.

4 Comments

    Dave Bruton

    I have been in the landscaping business for 15 years. I greatly enjoy the work and every day I learn something new.

    If you live in the Bristol area and need help with any aspect of landscape gardening please get in touch via our contact page.

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